Off the highway and into paradise: Discovering the Mid north coast

Off the highway, South West Rocks, Hat Head and Crescent Head are three idyllic Mid North Coast beach towns waiting to be explored that are well worth the extra mileage.

Are we there yet?

Image by Lily Welsh: The spectacular view from the Smoky Cape Lighthouse carpark.

460 kilometres along the A1 highway, halfway between Sydney and the Gold Coast, the road seems to go on forever. Having spotted cows of every colour, horses, sheep, and the occasional goat, you're no longer stimulated by your podcast, and the repetitive scenery, though beautiful, is putting you to sleep. You need a break. Or better yet, a detour!

Running on holiday time year-round, South West Rocks, Hat Head and Crescent Head are idyllic coastal havens and the perfect places to ease into relaxation mode. These towns are arguably prettier than Byron Bay and the Sunshine Coast but without the crowds or comically high prices.

Whether it's the happy, slow-moving locals, closing up shop because the surf is just too good, or the unbeatable views from the Smoky Cape Lighthouse, all I know is that after the first visit, you'll keep coming back!

South West Rocks

With beaches on beaches on beaches, you will be spoiled for choice in South West Rocks.

The town centre is a hive of activity with boutique surf shops that make you want to swap all of your corporate clothes for bikinis and boardies.

Image by Lily Welsh: The sun setting over the Macleay River in front of the Tavern.

Nestled by the mouth of the Macleay Valley River, visitors of South West Rocks embody quintessential Aussie beachside behaviour. It's walking barefoot down the main street, kids still shaking off the sand, towels haphazardly wrapped around waists, melted ice creams dripping down sunseekers' wrists, sunscreen-slicked skin, and hats and sunnies worn—the only appropriate uniform.

When the day ends, and all you want is a cold beer and a good spot to watch the sunset, the best place on the Mid North Coast is the Riverside Tavern in South West Rocks. From your seat on the Tavern’s wrap-around balcony, you’ll have the perfect view. For that million-dollar moment (and photo op), just cross the road to the river’s edge.

There, you can watch the sun paint the sky a vibrant tangerine before fading into dark, where the country-side stars fill the sky and steal the show!

My South West Rocks must-dos are:

1. Enjoy lunch and a stunning view of Horseshoe Bay at Riley's food van

2. Cool down with a cone of Chillati ice cream (there are 40 flavours to choose from)

3. Float in the crystal shallows at Trial Bay.

Looking for a local's guide to South West Rocks? Check out our blog post 'Too good to gatekeep—South West Rocks' for more details on the best cafes, shops and beaches!

Crescent Head

The most well-known of the three, Crescent Head is a surfer's paradise, even more so than Australia's infamous Surfers Paradise. Surfers can be seen chasing the swell from sunrise to sundown. Where the waves meet the mouth of Killick Creek, families enjoy the mellowness of the water, floating around for hours.

Image by Lily Welsh: Locals watching the surfers at Crescent Head.

With a local community rooted in surf culture and a notorious reputation for an iconic break point, Crescent Head draws the international surf community and is a great base to try a variety of surf spots dotted along the nearby coastline. Nomads, wanderers and sunseekers are often visitors who come for the waves and stay for the culture and simplicity of small town life.

It's a regular occurrence to see a Combi van chugging down the main street, wide-brimmed hats and Havaianas. The town's energy is synonymous with a Rip Curl advertisement and is characterised by the ocean's movement—when the swell is good, the main street is buzzing.

My Crescent Head must-dos are:

1. Indulge in endless pastries at Barnett's Bakery

2. Watch the surfers at the Crescent Head lookout point

3. Dress like a local with Cheetah Five's groovy surf wear collection.

   
   

Hat Head

An oasis where the national park meets the sea—Hat Head is an unspoiled natural beauty.

By far the smallest of the three towns, Hat Head is the most mighty in what it offers – near off-grid relaxation. With only a general store, a Bowlo and a camp park, it is a peaceful place to rest and explore before continuing your journey.

Image by Lily Welsh: The lagoon at Hat Head.

While the images are beautiful, they don't do Hat Head justice. Nature is really showing off with the sun sparkling on the glassy blue sea, silvery fish darting around and the odd pod of dolphins popping in to say hello.

If you do park your Wander Campervan and stay the night, remember that early birds really do get the worm. Set your alarm early and see an incredible sunrise from the shores of Hat Head Beach. The morning sun floods the coastline from the lighthouse to the national park, painting the world various shades of orange and pink. It's definitely worth the extra coffee you will need come lunchtime!

My Hat Head must-dos are:

1. Float down the lagoon in whatever direction the current takes you

2. Chow down on a burger at The General Hat Head

3. Take a walk along the endless stretch of beach, all the way to Smoky Cape.

   
   

Always chasing a freebie?

For all three locations I recommend camping in the Hat Head National Park at the entrance of the stunning Gap Beach. Five minutes out of South West Rocks and 30 minutes away from Hat Head, the location is secluded, surrounded by towering gums and best of all, it costs nothing!

Alternatively, you could wake up with a million-dollar view of the beach at Decliate Campground. It's another free camp park, this time situated a nine-minute drive from Crescent Head's main street.

So, if you are tired of looking at the endless stretch of highway ahead of you, don't miss your chance to take a detour (whether it's an hour or a few nights stay) to the picturesque towns of the Mid North Coast.

Images by Lily Welsh: The Mid North Coast.